" title="Painted, spoken Raymond Friel
Surfers at Freshwater West
In the sandy carpark teenage surfers
rolled on wet suits, bony torsos pimpling
in a stiff westerly, car stereos
redundant in the ravelling daylight.
Progress out to the good waves was slow –
belly-down on finned boards, stick-arms rowing
like creatures ill-evolved: a type for those
who persevere in uncertain hope of bliss…
One wobbled on a crest, only to fall.
One hung on, unable to go further.
Another rode his luck, balanced, and was up
until the wave tired and shrugged him off
in a downfall of spume and angled limbs.
With high tide encroaching on the pebbles
they waded in, privately exultant,
to souped-up cars, their own shivering skin.
Page(s) 15
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